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Torn between a
traditional monarchy and a Maoist insurgency, Nepal faces challenges
similar to those in Afghanistan, but with much less attention from
Americans.
  
Photos from professor Thapa's scrapbook show him at
various sites in Khatmandu including at Boudhanath Stupa (the world's
largest such Buddhist shrine, although Nepal is primarily Hindu) with
his father-in-law Netra Nasnyat, and sons Sam and Beraht.
Americans probably don't give
much thought to Nepal. When they do, they probably think of Mt. Everest,
Sir Edmund Hillary, sherpas and Into Thin Air, the bestselling book
by Jon Krakauer. Or maybe they remember Bob Seeger's rock'n'roll classic
song "Kathmandu."
Nepal's Himalaya range does contain
some of the world's highest and most challenging climbs, and its capital
is Kathmandu a name synonymous for Westerners with isolation and
mystery.
Along with these mistily romantic
images, Nepal also has a Maoist insurgency threatening to turn the
landlocked country bordering India and China-controlled Tibet into
a failed state.
Ferris Surveying Engineering
professor Khagendra Thapa has written several articles regarding the
political situation in Nepal. His views of his native country's trouble
have evolved as the political situation there has become ever more
complicated since 2001 when most of the royal family was murdered
in a bloody scene that could have been pulled straight out of Shakespeare.
Surveying the Damage
"I taught in Kathmandu for two
years when there were troubles in both Lebanon and Sri Lanka. I said
that Nepal was going to go through more serious trouble than either
of them. I wish the prediction didn't come true, but it did," says
Thapa.
Born in a mountainous region
in the more prosperous eastern part of Nepal, Thapa earned his bachelor's
degree in physics, mathematics and statistics at Tribhuvan University
in the Nepalese capital. He then traveled to London, England, to earn
a bachelor's degree in land surveying sciences, to the University
of New Brunswick, Canada, for a master's in surveying engineering
and to Ohio State University for both a master's and Ph.D. in geodetic
science and surveying.
Not bad for someone who didn't
learn to read and write until he was 14. Thapa sees his own accomplishments
in the light of roadblocks to a stable government in his native country.
"Democracy does not work if the
people are poor and illiterate," says Thapa. "People in Nepal have
to mark a particular symbol when they vote because about two-thirds
of them don't know how to write. So that's why I have this idea of
a literacy campaign. If people don't know how to read and write, how
can they be responsible citizens? In African and Latin American countries,
the lives of the people have not improved under democracy. In some
cases, it's gotten worse."
High Drama
Although the Maoist insurgency
in the mountain kingdom began in the mid-1990s, the political situation
in the country took a dramatic and still-unfolding turn with the murder
of almost the entire royal family on June 1, 2001.
At that time, Prince Dipendra
Bir Bikram Shah Dev wanted to marry Devyani Rana, a member of a clan
with whom the royal dynasty had some historical animosity. The prince's
mother blocked the marriage. That family tension was reportedly the
reason why the prince shot and killed nine family members including
his father, King Birdendra, and mother, Queen Aishwarya before turning
the gun on himself or else being shot by a palace guard. After the
murders, while in a coma, he was proclaimed king. He died four days
later and his uncle, Prince Gyandendra, succeeded him on the throne.
Just as in the United States,
conspiracy theories abound. "Whatever happened, it is quite mysterious.
Nobody really knows what happened," says Thapa. "There are all sorts
of allegations."
Many of the articles that professor
Thapa has written and published widely on the Internet have been in
support of King Gyandendra. As the situation has evolved, so have
Thapa's views on the best way forward for the country. However, he
still sees a strong role for the monarchy.
"Right now, if you take the current
king out, there will be terrible turmoil in Nepal," says Thapa. "I
think the best solution is for the King and the Maoists to declare
a ceasefire and hold elections then the insurgents could talk to
the elected government. With a constitutional monarchy the king would
be the head of state, but not the head of government."
In the short term, Thapa thinks
that neither monarchism nor democracy can solve Nepal's political
impasse. He imagines a transition period where the government would
be a meritocracy, consisting of people essentially hired to run the
country.
"Why not hire responsible, educated
people who will do good for the people? Why not run the country the
way you run a corporation with a CEO and a board of trustees?" says
Thapa. "Even that goes wrong sometimes look at Enron. But on the
whole it works. Many third world countries have smaller budgets than
these big corporations. I don't think anybody's going to implement
my ideas, but that doesn't mean I can't propose them."
Slouching Toward Kathmandu
Thapa was last in Nepal in 2002
to care for his ailing father. He saw first-hand the effects of the
country's political unrest.
"Things were falling apart. The
government was behaving in an irresponsible way looking at their
personal interest more than the national interest," says Thapa. High-level
corruption was one of the main reasons cited for King Gyandendra's
dismissal of his cabinet and prime minister in October 2002. A coalition
government was reinstated in 2004, but dissolved again by the king
in February 2005.
"When the king came to power
in February, I thought he did the right thing," Thapa says. "First
of all, he said the situation would be temporary. He also said he
would establish peace, hold elections and devolve power to the people.
So, under those circumstances, I felt he did the right thing. But
I'm not too happy with what the king has done lately."
Even though Thapa notes that
he was the first instructor at Ferris to deliver course material online,
he was still surprised at the wide currency his articles received
through the Internet. He also discovered another aspect of Web publication
the sense that everything on the Internet is current, when in fact
it isn't.
"Many of the things I wrote are
time-dependent, but now things have changed my opinions have changed,"
Thapa says. But once you put it on the Internet, you have no control."
What hasn't changed is Nepal's
rugged beauty. Thapa notes that the country's topography ranges from
just 300 feet above sea level to the world's highest peak. With that
range of climates, Nepal grows everything from apples and cherries
to oranges, bananas and mangos. The country also has extensive wildlife,
including elephants, tigers and rhinos.
Although Thapa worries that the
country's insurgency could rival Cambodia's Khmer Rouge regime in
ruthlessness if successful, he hopes that can be avoided. If so, he'd
like to be a part of Nepal's future.
"I would like to return and live
there when I retire from Ferris," he says. "I'd like to go there at
least part of the year and volunteer my time. It's a very interesting
country, very beautiful. The people are very nice and honest, but
they really messed up in terms of political issues."
In his poem "Displacement," the
Nepali poet Govinda Bartaman writes, "Over and over the questions
come/Over and over the answers run away." Expatriate Nepali and those
still living in the mountain kingdom hope one day to capture those
answers, which have proven so elusive. |